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One year after the Xynthia storm surge, which struck the Vendée and the Charente-Maritime counties of the French Atlantic Coast in the night of 27/28 February 2010, French authorities implemented a national plan for mitigation and management of the flash submersions (MEDDTL 2011). In this paper authors analyse partial results of this plan after almost three years of its effectiveness in the perspective of Xynthia catastrophic event, but also taking into account other dramatic coastal submersions, which occured during winter 2014 in the same region.
Based on wind data from the Vilsandi meteorological station and a 5-month calibration measurement with a bottom-mounted Recording Doppler Current Profiler (RDCP), a semi-empirical hindcast of wave parameters near the quickly developing accumulative Kelba Spit is presented for the period 1966–2006. The significant wave heights with a gross mean value of 0.56 m exhibited some quasiperiodic cycles, with the last high stage in 1980–95 and a decreasing overall trend of −0.001 m per year. At the same time, both the frequency and intensity of high wave events showed rising trends, and the mean wave heights during winter (December to February) increased as well. As the study area has the longest fetches in westerly directions, the discussed tendencies in wave conditions are sensitive to regional changes in the wind climate and can be related to a decrease in the local average wind speed on the one hand, but an intensification of westerly winds, storm events and the wintertime NAO index on the other. The roughest wave storms on record were associated with prominent W-storms on 2 November 1969 and 9 January 2005; a few other extreme wind events (e.g. in 1967, 1999, 2001), however, did not yield equally prominent waves.
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A brief analysis of North Sea physics

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The current state of understanding the North Sea’s physical system is presented. First, basic phenomena like astronomical tides and general circulation will be described and analysed with respect to their physical nature and respective interactions. There will be special focus on fundamental dynamic balances. Next, some specific topics relevant to the marine ecosystem, the economy and society will be considered: among them, spreading and transport processes, the fresh water budget, the heat budget and storm surges. A separate section is dedicated to the North Sea of Tomorrow, i.e. the prospective variations of the physical environment resulting from global changes in future decades. The statements are based on the long experience of the authors and their groups and include findings that are little known if at all. The review finishes with a list of open questions and the corresponding research demands.
This paper analyses wave attenuation in coastal mangrove forests in Vietnam. Data from 32 mangrove plots of six species located in 2 coastal regions are used for this study. In each plot, mangrove forest structures and wave height at different cross-shore distances are measured. Wave height closely relates to cross- shore distances. 92 exponential regression equations are highly significant with R2 >0.95 and P val. <0.001. Wave height reduction depends on initial wave height, cross-shore distances, and mangrove forest structures. This relationship is used to define minimum mangrove band width for coastal protection from waves in Vietnam.
Wind, flow and wave measurements were performed in November–December in 2008 in the relatively narrow and shallow Suur Strait connecting the waters of the V¨ainameri and the Gulf of Riga. During the measurement period wind conditions were extremely variable, including a severe storm on 23 November. The flow speed along the strait varied between ±0.2 m s−1, except for the 0.4 m s−1 that occurred after the storm as a result of the sea level gradient. The mean and maximum significant wave heights were 0.53 m and 1.6 m respectively. Because of their longer fetch, southerly winds generated higher waves in the strait than winds from the north. All wave events caused by the stronger southerly winds induced sediment resuspension, whereas the current-induced shear velocity slightly exceeded the critical value for resuspension only when the current speed was 0.4 m s−1. A triplenested two-dimensional high resolution (100 m in the Suur Strait) circulation model and the SWAN wave model were used to simulate water exchange in 2008 and the wave-induced shear velocity field in the Suur Strait respectively. Circulation model simulations demonstrated that water exchange was highly variable, that cumulative transport followed an evident seasonal cycle, and that there was an gross annual outflow of 23 km3 from the Gulf of Riga. The horizontal distribution of waveinduced shear velocity during the strong southerly wind event indicated large shear velocities and substantial horizontal variability. The shear velocities were less than the critical value for resuspension in the deep area of the Suur Strait.
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