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Surface waves in deep and shallow waters

100%

Massel S. R.

Oceanologia

2010

tom 52

nr 1

5-52

The motion of water due to surface waves is the most dynamic factor observed in the marine environment. In this review various aspects of the wave modelling of non-linear, steep surface waves and their role in the atmosphere-ocean interaction are discussed. Significant improvements in wave forecasting have been made in the last ten years. This is to a large extent related to substantial progress in the description of wind forcing and other processes, as well as to the more efficient use of satellite observations and assimilation methods. One striking observation is the increasing variety and complexity of models in which more physical processes are implemented, greater precision and resolution achieved and extended ranges of applicability demonstrated. However, in order to evaluate the applicability of particular models, comparison with high quality experimental data, collected in nature or under laboratory conditions, is necessary.

On the geometry of ocean surface waves

80%

Massel S. R.

Oceanologia

2011

tom 53

nr 2

The factors influencing the atmosphere-ocean transfer of mass and momentum, as well as incipient wave breaking and the amount of energy dissipated due to breaking, are discussed in detail. In particular, the influence of directional spreading on the statistics of surface wave slopes and the area of the wind- roughened ocean surface is demonstrated. Theoretical analysis and comparison with the available experimental data show that unimodal directional spreading is not able to reproduce the observed ratio of the cross-wind/up-wind mean square slopes. Better agreement is achieved when bimodal directional spreading, consisting of two wrapped-Gaussian distributions, is applied. The bimodal form suggested by Ewans (1998) is used in the paper. Moreover, the formulae developed here show that the increase in the area due to surface waves is rather small for both regular and irregular waves.

Ograniczanie wyników

2 Oceanologia

2 Massel S. R.

1 2011

1 2010

Wyniki wyszukiwania

Surface waves in deep and shallow waters

On the geometry of ocean surface waves