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Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves

100%

Ostrowski R., Szmytkiewicz M.

Oceanologia

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2006

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tom 48

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nr 3

Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).

2

Groins and submerged breakwaters – new modeling and empirical experience

81%

Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Schonhofer J., Szmytkiewicz M.

Oceanological and Hydrobiological Studies

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2016

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tom 45

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nr 1

3

Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone

71%

Pruszak Z., Szmytkiewicz P., Ostrowski R., Skaja M., Szmytkiewicz M.

Oceanologia

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2008

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tom 50

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nr 1

43-58

The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.

4

Hydrology and morphology of two river mouth regions (temperate Vistula Delta and subtropical Red River Delta)

71%

Pruszak Z., Van Ninh P., Szmytkiewicz M., Hung N. M., Ostrowski R.

Oceanologia

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2005

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tom 47

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nr 3

The paper presents a comparative analysis of two different river mouths from two different geographical zones (subtropical and temperate climatic regions). One is the multi-branch and multi-spit mouth of the Red River on the Gulf of Tonkin (Vietnam), the other is the smaller delta of the river Vistula on a bay of the Baltic Sea (Poland). The analysis focuses on the similarities and differences in the hydrodynamics between these estuaries and the adjacent coastal zones, the features of sediment transport, and the long-term morphodynamics of the river outlets. Salinity and water level are also discussed, the latter also in the context of the anticipated global effect of accelerated sea level rise. The analysis shows that the climatic and environmental conditions associated with geographical zones give rise to fundamental differences in the generation and dynamic evolution of the river mouths.

5

Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)

61%

Nikolov H., Trifonova E., Cherneva Z., Ostrowski R., Skaja M., Szmytkiewicz M.

Oceanologia

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2006

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tom 48

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nr 3

The paper presents the results of studies on the qualitative and quantitative features of the littoral drift at Golden Sands (Bulgaria), carried out jointly by Polish and Bulgarian researchers. The mathematical modelling of physical coastal processes took wave transformation (wave diffraction and refraction; the effects of shoaling and wave breaking) and longshore sediment transport into account. The computations were carried out for the mean statistical annual wave climate, determined on the basis of IO BAS wave data, simulated using the WAM method from long-term Black Sea wind data. The results of sediment transport computations clearly show that its direction off the Golden Sands shore is from north to south.

Ograniczanie wyników

4 Oceanologia

1 Oceanological and Hydrobiological Studies

5 Ostrowski R.

5 Szmytkiewicz M.

3 Pruszak Z.

2 Skaja M.

1 Cherneva Z.

1 Hung N. M.

1 Nikolov H.

1 Schonhofer J.

1 Szmytkiewicz P.

1 Trifonova E.

1 Van Ninh P.

1 2016

1 2008

2 2006

1 2005

Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves

Groins and submerged breakwaters – new modeling and empirical experience

Shallow-water wave energy dissipation in a multi-bar coastal zone

Hydrology and morphology of two river mouth regions (temperate Vistula Delta and subtropical Red River Delta)

Longshore sediment transport at Golden Sands (Bulgaria)