Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves

• Autorzy: Ostrowski R. , Szmytkiewicz M.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).

Słowa kluczowe

EN

coastal zone; hydrodynamic condition; sandy sediment; wave-current interaction; sediment transport; wave asymmetry

• Wydawca: -
• Czasopismo: Oceanologia
• Rocznik: 2006
• Tom: 48
• Numer: 3
• Opis fizyczny: p.395-412,fig.,ref.

Twórcy

autor

Ostrowski R.

• Polish Academy of Sciences, Koscierska 7, 80-328 Gdansk, Poland

autor

Szmytkiewicz M.

Bibliografia

• Bailard J.A., 1981, An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach, J. Geophys. Res., 86 (C11), 10938–10954.
• Battjes J.A., Janssen J.P.F.M., 1978, Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves, Proc. 16th ICCE, Vol. 1, 569–587.
• Bijker E.W., 1971, Longshore transport computations, J. Waterway. Harbour. Coast. Eng. Div.-ASCE, 97 (WW4), 687–701.
• Deigaard R., 1993, Modelling of sheet flow: dispersion stresses vs. the diffusion concept, Prog. Rep. 74, Inst. Hydrodyn. Hydraul. Eng., Tech. Univ. Denmark, 65–81.
• Fenton J.D., A high-order cnoidal wave theory, Part 1, J. Fluid Mech., 94, 129–161.
• Fredsøe J., 1984, Turbulent boundary layer in combined wave-current motion, J. Hydraul. Eng.-ASCE, 110 (HY8), 1103–1120.
• Kaczmarek L.M., Ostrowski R., 1992, Modelling of wave-current boundary layer in the coastal zone, Proc. 23rd ICCE, ASCE, New York, 350–363.
• Kaczmarek L.M., Ostrowski R., 1996, Asymmetric and irregular wave effects on bedload: theory versus laboratory and field experiments, Proc. 25th ICCE, ASCE, New York, 3467–3480.
• Kaczmarek L.M., Ostrowski R., 2002, Modelling intensive near-bed sand transport under wave-current flow versus laboratory and field data, Coast. Eng., 45 (1), 1–18.
• Massel S.R., 1989, Hydrodynamics of coastal zones, Elsevier, Amsterdam, 336 pp.
• Massel S.R., 1992, Wave motion at open waters and limited aquatories, [in:] Poradnik hydrotechnika, Wyd. Mor., Gdańsk, 338 pp., (in Polish).
• Ostrowski R., 2002, Application of cnoidal wave theory in modelling of sediment transport, Arch. Hydro-Eng. Environ. Mech., 49 (1), 107–118.
• Ostrowski R., 2003, A quasi phase-resolving model of net sand transport and shortterm cross-shore profile evolution, Oceanologia, 45 (2), 261–282.
• Ostrowski R., 2004, Morphodynamics of a multi-bar coastal zone, IBW PAN, Gdańsk, 163 pp.
• Ribberink J. S., Al-Salem A., 1994, Sediment transport in oscillatory boundary layers in cases of rippled beds and sheet flow, J. Geoph. Res., 99 (C6), 12707–12727.
• Shore Protection Manual, 1977, US Army Coast. Eng. Res. Center.
• Sobey R. J., Goodwin P., Thieke R. J., Westberg R. J., 1987, Application of Stokes, cnoidal and Fourier wave theories, J. Waterw. Port C. Div., 113 (6), 565–587.
• Svendsen I.A, 1984, Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone, Coast. Eng., 8 (4) 347–365.
• Szmytkiewicz M., 1995, 2D velocity distributions in nearshore currents, Proc. Coast. Dynam. ’95, ASCE, New York, 366–376.
• Szmytkiewicz M., 2002a, Quasi 3D model of wave-induced currents in coastal zone, Archiv. Hydro-Eng. Environ. Mech., 49 (1), 57–81.
• Szmytkiewicz M., 2002b, Wave-induced currents in the coastal zone, IBW PAN, Gdańsk, 235 pp., (in Polish).
• Szmytkiewicz M., Biegowski J., Kaczmarek L. M., Okrój T., Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Różyński G., Skaja M, 2000, Coastline changes nearby harbour structures: comparative analysis of one-line models versus field data, Coast. Eng., 40 (2), 119–139.
• Van Rijn L.C., 1993, Principles of sediment transport in rivers, estuaries and coastal seas, Aqua Publ., Amsterdam, 614 pp.
• Wiegel R. L., 1960, A presentation of cnoidal wave theory for practical application, J. Fluid Mech., 7, 273–286.