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Czasopismo

2012 | 54 | 2 |

Tytuł artykułu

Motion of water and sediment due to non-breaking waves in the swash zone

Treść / Zawartość

Języki publikacji

EN

Abstrakty

EN
A long wave run-up theory is applied to the modelling of wave-induced flow velocities, sediment transport rates and bottom changes in a swash zone. First, the properties of the water tongue motion and the resulting lithodynamic response are analysed theoretically. Next, an attempt is made to run the model for the natural conditions encountered on the southern Baltic Sea coast. The Lagrangian swash velocities are used to determine the Eulerian phase-resolved bed shear stresses with a momentum integral method, after which the motion of sand is described by the use of a two-layer model, comprising bedload and nearbed suspended load. Seabed evolution is then found from the spatial variability of the net sediment transport rates. The results presented are limited to cases of the small-amplitude waves that seem to be responsible for accretion on beaches.

Wydawca

-

Czasopismo

Rocznik

Tom

54

Numer

2

Opis fizyczny

p.175-197,fig.,ref.

Twórcy

autor
  • Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Koscierska 7, 80-328 Gdansk, Poland
autor

Identyfikator YADDA

bwmeta1.element.agro-2a3f9fe9-00d3-4ac2-bd5a-fde60530ba93