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The paper presents the results of studies of wave transformation on a multi-bar cross-shore profile of the southern Baltic Sea. The field investigations of wave motion were carried out using an offshore wave buoy and string wave gauges at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station, Lubiatowo (Poland). These experimental results were used to validate statistical relationships between characteristic wave parameters in the coastal region and to assess wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. Asimple model for calculating the residual nearshore wave energy is proposed and tested versus the data collected in situ.
An analytical approach was used to model the wave-induced set-up and flow through simple shoal geometry when water depth is a linear function of the distance. Two different approaches were applied to parameterize the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The resulting set-up height and flow velocity were determined and their dependence on the geometry of the shoal and offshore forcing was demonstrated. The extension of the solution to a more complicated bathymetry and verification against the experimental data will be given in the second part of the paper.
Biogeochemical and trophodynamic processes as well as hydrodynamic factors play a major role in the structure and function of mangrove ecosystems. This study outlines field experiments on wave motion and suspended sediment concentration carried out at Nang Hai, Can Gio mangrove forest, Southern Vietnam. Pressure sensors were used to measure sea surface elevation, and Optical Backscatter Sensors (OBS) were applied to detect infrared (IR) radiation scattered from suspended particles in order to measure turbidity and suspended sediment concentrations. The experimental results indicate that most of the energy is dissipated inside the mangrove forest as a result of wave-trunk interactions and wave breaking. The suspended sediment concentration depends on wave intensity and tidal current velocity. Wave action is one of the main factors forcing sediment transport and coastal erosion at the study site; even the wave field at the study site is not so strong. The establishment of mangrove vegetation can encourage the deposition of sediment, or at least the retention of the flood-tide sediment influx.
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