A quasi phase-resolving model of net sand transport and short-term cross-shore profile evolution

• Autorzy: Ostrowski R.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

A way of modelling of the net sediment transport rate on a cross-shore profile and the resulting sea bed changes is presented. In the sediment transport computations, a three-layer model with a description of the bedload based on the water-soil mixture theory by Kaczmarek& Ostrowski (1998, 2002) is used. The modelling system is applied to wave-current conditions variable over the cross-shore profile, and determined using the computational frameworkof Szmytkiewicz (2002a, b). The sediment transport module incorporates the asymmetric wave approaches as proposed by Ostrowski (2002). Model simulations have been produced for uniformly sloped and multi-bar initial cross-shore profiles. Some of the model results are compared with the IBW PAN (Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences) field data collected at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

coastal zone; hydrodynamics; wave-current condition; cross-shore profile; Baltic Sea; evolution; modelling; sand transport; sediment transport; hydrodynamic impact

• Wydawca: -
• Czasopismo: Oceanologia
• Rocznik: 2003
• Tom: 45
• Numer: 2
• Opis fizyczny: p.261-282,fig.,ref.

Twórcy

autor

Ostrowski R.

• Polish Academy of Sciences, Koscierska 7, 80-953 Gdansk, Poland

Bibliografia

• Battjes J.A., Janssen J.P. F.M., 1978, Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves, Proc. 16th ICCE., Vol. 1, 569–587.
• Deigaard R., 1993, Modelling of sheet flow: dispersion stresses vs. the diffusion concept, Prog. Rep. 74, Inst. Hydrodyn. and Hydraul. Eng., Tech. Univ. Denmark, 65–81.
• Fredsøe J., 1984, Turbulent boundary layer in combined wave-current motion, J. Hydraul. Eng., ASCE, 110 (HY8), 1103–1120.
• Kaczmarek L. M., Ostrowski R., 1992, Modelling of wave-current boundary layer in the coastal zone, Proc. 23rd ICCE, ASCE, New York, 350–363.
• Kaczmarek L. M., Ostrowski R., 1996, Asymmetric and irregular wave effects on bedload: theory versus laboratory and field experiments, Proc. 25th ICCE, ASCE, New York, 3467–3480.
• Kaczmarek L. M., Ostrowski R., 1998, Modelling of a three-layer sediment transport system in oscillatory flow, Proc. 26th ICCE, ASCE, Reston, VA, 2559–2572.
• Kaczmarek L. M., Ostrowski R., 2002, Modelling intensive near-bed sand transport under wave-current flow versus laboratory and field data, Coast. Eng., 45, 1–18.
• Kriebel D. L., Dean R.G., 1993, Convolution method for time-dependent beachprofile response, J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., 119 (2), 204–226.
• Kriebel D. L., Kraus N.C., Larson M., 1991, Engineering methods for predicting beach profile response, Proc. Conf. Coastal Sediments, ASCE, New York, 557–571.
• Larson M., Kraus N.C., 1995, Prediction of cross-shore sediment transport at different spatial and temporal scales, Mar. Geol., 126, 111–127.
• O’Connor B.A., Nicholson J., MacDonald N., O’Shea K., 1992, Application of the Watanabe cross-shore transport model to prototype-scale data, Proc. 2nd Int. Conf. Hydraulic and Environmental Modelling of Coastal, Estuarine and River Waters, Vol. 1, Univ. Press, Cambridge, 337–348.
• Ostrowski R., 2002, Application of cnoidal wave theory in modelling of sediment transport, Arch. Hydro-Eng. Environ. Mech., 49 (1), 107–118.
• PruszakZ. , 1998, Dynamics of beach and seabed, IBW PAN, Gdańsk, 463 pp., (in Polish).
• Rakha K.A., Deigaard R., Brøker I., 1997, A phase-resolving cross shore sediment transport model for beach profile evolution, Coast. Eng., 31, 231–261.
• Ribberink J. S., Al-Salem A., 1994, Sediment transport in oscillatory boundary layers in cases of rippled beds and sheet flow, J. Geophys. Res., 99(C6), 12707–12727.
• Svendsen I.A., 1984, Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone, Coast. Eng., 8, 347–365.
• Szmytkiewicz M., 2002a, Quasi 3D model of wave-induced currents in coastal zone, Arch. Hydro-Eng. Environ. Mech., 49 (1), 57–81.
• Watanabe A., 1982, Numerical models of nearshore currents and beach deformation, Coast. Eng. Jap., JSCE, 25, 147–161.